Home > India > Kumbalgarh – a step back in time

Kumbalgarh – a step back in time

The road to Kumbalgarh, is the road to medieval times. Off the beaten track, the villages in these mountains are isolated, even today, many without electricity, certainly without running water.





the road to Kumbalgarh

The most breathtaking sights for us, were the buffalo turning the ancient water wheels. It is like out of a museum re-creation, but it is very real. It is a real as the begging children, the strict caste system, the mud huts, the thorn animal enclosures and all that goes with living in these communities. An uncomfortably far cry from the very nice hotel we booked for ourselves into in the little village near Kumbalgarh fort. The hotel is part of a collection of hotels that belongs to the king of the region, and was suitable posh and suitable expensive.

sublime to the ridiculous - the villagers and our hotel




some of the hotel animals

The real reason for coming all this way on dusty rough back roads was not the village, but the fort. Alleged to be surrounded by the second longest fortified wall after the Great Wall of China, at some 35km, the fort is a towering impressive citadel with a palace and no fewer that 360 temples in the complex. To this day it has a small village near the main gate.

first view of the fort

A kind Indian family invited us to join their tour, which we gladly did, and were much wiser for it. We also  met two really nice GP’s who had walked across the mountains from Ranekpur in the heat of the day – MAD! All in all, this is our number 1 fort in India so far. It will take some beating.

our friendly Indian family

view from the top

After leaving Kumbalgarh, we wound our way back through the mountains stopping at the famous (and touristy) Jain temples in Ranakpur. With 1440 intricately carved columns, 24 domes and at least as many “hawker” priests, this temple is impressive, feeling a bit like a much more ornate Cordoban Mesquita.

the detail on the Jain temples is divine

inside it is pretty impressive too

A quick stop and we were off on the road north to Jodhpur. To Jo’s horror, I had found some mud huts to stay in with a local weaving family in a remote little village 20km outside the city!

Categories: India Tags: , , ,
  1. Sanjay Jain
    March 29, 2012 at 3:33 pm

    Dear Allen, nice to see the group photo. We enjoyed the visit to fort with your family.We also saw photographs of your visit to other places / countries. Your purpose to the visit for world tour is exciting and inspiring. Have a safe journey for rest of your tour.

    • March 31, 2012 at 11:08 am

      Thanks Sanjay. And thank you for arranging the tour that allowed us to meet with you. Hopefully you will have memories of the fort that are as fond as ours. It is definitely our favourite fort in Rajastan and I can say that now we are in Varanasi. Our journey slowly comes to an end in 10 days so we are making the most of it and heading up to the mountains. We hope it is not too cold. Take care, regards to the family,

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