Home > India > Bijaipur and our castle retreat

Bijaipur and our castle retreat

What better way to look down on people, than from the top of a castle. What a contrast – last night £2.50 for a room, tonight luxury in a 16th century castle. To make it even better, they upgraded us to the penthouse suite in the original part of the castle, complete with domed bedrooms, ramparts, balconies and oriel windows.




the "new" road to Bijaipur

Opium, 40% goes to Government for painkillers, 60% to blackmarket.

Sickles and bushells are still in use everywhere.


The castle was stunning, as if that was not enough, a swimming pool, and to complete the pleasure  – cold beer. Mmmmmmm.  The castle is something of a oasis, at the end of a 30km dusty decrepit road; this place actually had no road or electricity until 1987, keeping the village as a time capsule from 17th century rural India. Until the new road, the only way to get here was on a horse. We also met with the owner whose family have lived here 300 years.

our suite on the top floor - that's more like it

our backpacks were a bit incongruous.


To get to Bijaipur we had to take the notorious Bundi Kota Road. We were not aware of the road until the driver pipes up, “You know – this area very bad.” “very bad?” we ask. “Yes, Yes, Bundi Kota Road – many hijack, people stop car, want money – not money – bang”. Great – we are driving around, off the tourist route and the driver is nervous that it might all end with a bang. Whilst the danger is genuine, apparently it only happens at night. We agree with the driver, only to drive in daylight hours – thus reassured  – we put the hijackers behind us and enjoyed the castle.

standing on the ramparts, this is the view of the hotel to your right........

.......and your view to the left. Such is the contrast.

The place gets used as a Yoga retreat a lot of the time, people fly in and spend 10 days meditating, not my cup of tea, but the place is perfectly suited to it. If, as some people do, you stayed in this quality of accommodation all the time, you would have a very different view of India.

the courtyard at night, we had the whole top floor.

As we had the top of the castle to ourselves, we made the most of the views, watching the sunset and the sunrise, and most interesting of all, watching a rural village wake up: the women sweeping out, children walking the animals, men drinking their chai, all to the sound of the temples and bells. It was a remarkable scene, straight out of a museum.

just some of the locals


If anyone is in the area, stay here – it is well worth it – just remember to come during the day.


"hot wheels" for 2 weeks


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